DMK Burger Bar
Friday, March 12, 2010
If I were in charge, I might change the name to DGB. Damn Good Burger. Michael Kornick (of MK fame) and David Morton (perhaps you’ve heard of Morton’s Steakhouse?) have successfully opened a reasonably priced, unreasonably good burger bar worthy of the hype. Where else can you get a grass-fed beef burger topped with marinated Portobello mushrooms, blue brie, griddled scallions, and dijonnaise…for only $8?
In the past month, I’ve eaten at DMK three times and sampled five different burgers, four varieties of fries, three types of beer, two signature cocktails, fried dill pickles, and an order of chili-spiced onion strings. While the sheer amount of food I consumed is a little staggering, it was worth every last calorie.
The sweet potato fries might be the singular best item on the menu. As a budding fry connoisseur, there are a number of variables that constitute an exceptional fry. Length, thickness, crispiness, saltiness, temperature, and flavoring all contribute to the complex taste equation. I don’t know what DMK does in their kitchen (aside from revealing that these are hand-cut russet potatoes), but I think they’re practicing alchemy. Somehow, the fries they serve are infinitely better than their burger joint competitors. The parmesan and truffle cream fries could actually be called gourmet, while the sea salt and black pepper arrive with house-made ketchup that gives Heinz a bad name. If you’re a spud fan, DMK will not disappoint. As an added bonus, the small size fries are a mere $2 to $3, meaning you might as well order all five types for the table.
On the burger side, you can pick your protein, which is perfect for picky eaters or experimental diners. While DMK divides the menu into signature burgers (choices #1-8) and turkey/lamb/veggie/Portobello (selections #9-13), you can mix and match. The turkey, eggplant, Portobello and blue cheese coleslaw combo is stellar, but you’ll need two hands as the eggplant starts sliding to the side. The roasted hatch green chile version served with a fried farm egg, Sonoma jack cheese, and smoked bacon is rife with spice, but the egg is a delicious addition. Even the veggie and grain burger with cheddar, eggplant, tomato, and pesto mayo is better than expected, even if it’s on the crumbly side.
Aside from cuisine that rivals far more expensive restaurants across town, DMK also thrives with broad-based appeal. You can find families with strollers or young couples out for cocktails. The energy and appeal of the space attracts a diverse crowd, but somehow it doesn’t feel strange to sip a pilsner with a baby one booth over. One warning – they don’t accept reservations so it’s best to arrive early, order a drink, and people watch while perusing the menu. It’s worth waiting for that DGB…and an order of the sweet potato fries.
