To Market with Mo: just a spoonful of...

Thursday, April 29, 2010

If Mary Poppins were giving little Michael and Jane honey instead of sugar, why she might have been able to skip the 'medicine' part all together....and no it's not psychosomatic. That spoonful on honey does ease a sore throat. Honey is a wonder 'drug' on two fronts:

A) It's natural antiseptic properties, 'yeah, sore throat, take that', and a great topical salve (number one wound treatment during the civil war, how 'bout that tidbit?). For this purpose go for a darker honey, say a buckwheat honey. It packs more antioxidants than any other honey.

B) Homeopathically. If you are an allergy sufferer like myself, down local raw honey to build up your immune system. Your local bees aren't collecting nectar and pollen from hibiscus in Barbados, but from all those blooming things that got you sneezing in the first place. Local honey (especially a prairie or wildflower honey) hold bits of pollen from all these allergens. So, by consuming the honey, you start building an immunity to them. Yay you.

I could go on about the 'good for you' properties of honey, like all the antioxidants, minerals, enzymes, and vitamins it contains, but all that aside, it's the taste that is so intoxicating. And I am not talking your grocery-store, all the goodness cooked out of it variety, but real local honey that you can actually taste the blooms that it came from.

Speaking of the blooms. Did you know it takes 4.5 million flowers to make one pound of honey? And who does all the work? Bees. Seriously. These little creatures, who you might find annoying if they sting you, are probably the most important player in the sustainability story. Bees gather nectar from flowers, and in turn are pollinating plants. A full one third of the food we consume requires pollination. Did you know that when bees are around to pollinate, crop yields have been known to increase as much as 45%. Wow! Busy? Not the word for it. And with the bee population a quarter of what it was less than 50 years ago....well, instead of getting too down about this situation I say spin it positive--we can all do our part to help US beekeepers, and they in turn they will help the honey bee. How? By buying the byproduct of the bee's hard work: that raw local honey.

There are a number of sources for local honey and honey products. Two in the city itself (Chicago, to clarify for my out of town readers): Chicago Honey Co-op and Sweet Beginnings (producer of the beeline, line of honey products). Not only are both these producers working within the city limits in under-served neighborhoods, and increasing our bee population, but they are helping to provide jobs for those who might otherwise have a tough time finding employment.

A number of vendors sell honey at the farmers markets, but one of my favorite source is Bron's Bees Honey (from Heritage Prairie Farm). Why? I truly believe the beekeeper, Browyn Weaver's passion for bees, and beekeeping, is reflected in the honey she produces. Wait. I need to back up. The honey that her well-cared for bees produce. And don't stop at trying the honey and honey comb, if you have the opportunity to try Bron's Honey cake? Do. Oh my heck, this cake is pure bliss. But if you can't wait another couple of weeks for Summer market season to get into full swing, there are online and local retailers that carry these locally produced honeys (refer to all the links above).

All this talk of blooming and pollen has got me feeling a bit of spring fever. And if 'allergy girl' is going to sit out on the back porch, on an unseasonably warm MayDay evening, might as well combat the pollen blowing about with a 'medicinal' cocktail, right?

Bee's Knees (a speakeasy classic)

2 parts gin (Hendricks works nicely)

1 part honey simple syrup*

1 part fresh lemon juice

splash of Licor 43 (optional, but brings this cocktail to another level)

Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker, stir briefly to dissolve the honey syrup, then fill with ice. Shake well. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a slice of lemon, or really zip it up with a sprig of lavender.

*Honey simple syrup: combine equal parts of honey and water in a sauce pan. Heat until simmering and honey is dissolved. Store in the fridge.

See you at the markets!

Mo

p.s. any favorite ways to use honey? email me at moira@efete.net

Labels: beeline, Bron's Bees, Chicago Honey Co-op, Green City Market, seasonal organic produce, Sweet Beginnings

To Market with Mo: chestnuts now?

Friday, April 9, 2010

"Chestnuts roasting on an open fire, Jack Frost..." Whoa, whoa, whoa sister, stop already, wrong time of year. It's time for green to start showing all it's beautiful new shades, not for popping freshly roasted chestnuts into our pockets to keep warm.

Oh, but wait. It does not have to be wintry to enjoy chestnuts. Yes, prime season is Fall and Winter(hello chestnuts and Brussels sprouts), but a recent wander thru the farmer's market (a stop at Hillside Orchards stand to be specific) and, low and behold, one of my favs in another form. Or I should say forms: chestnuts peeled, frozen, vacuum-packed and ready to go, chestnut flour, and something I had not seen before, chestnut 'slices' and 'chips' (these are freeze dried slices of chestnuts to enjoy as is as a snack, garnish salads or veggies, pulverize to a 'breading' for fish or meats, or rehydrate and use like you would fresh chestnuts.)

Oh sure, frozen are a great stand-in for fresh: to use in stuffings and soups, but the sweet tooth has been doggin' me a bit more than usual (I'll blame Easter, yeah, that's it...) so I'm thinking souffles, puddings, ice cream, or puree (for crepe filling, of course). Why stop at the crepe filling, bring on the chestnut flour to make those crepes, that need filling.

Chestnut flour. In both Europe, and here in the States, chestnut flour was a staple used more than wheat flour. It was the wheat flour that was more of a luxury (go figure). Then bam, a 20th century chestnut blight, and oh how the tables turned. But lucky us, the majority of stateside chestnut growers, rebuilding blighted trees, are located just across 'the lake' in Michigan.

Gluten-free, low fat, and nutritious, chestnut flour is a great stand-in for wheat flour. Chestnut flour does lack gluten, and is denser than wheat flour, so in some recipes you might want to mix with wheat flour, or other GF flours if you are celiac or gluten intolerant. You don't want to mess around with mixing flours, and are hankering to whip up something sweet? Here is a simple and delicious brownie recipe courtesy of the Chestnut Growers, Inc. (which Hillside Orchards is a member of):

Chestnut Brownies

2/3 cup chestnut flour

1/2 t salt

1/2 t baking powder

2 oz unsweetened chocolate

4 oz bittersweet chocolate

1 stick plus 2 T butter

1 c sugar

2 t vanilla

3 eggs

1/2 c chestnut 'slices' or walnuts or pecans (optional)

Heat oven to 325 degrees. Whisk flour, salt and baking powder in small bowl; set aside. Fit a 16x12 inch piece of foil in the bottom of a 13"x9" pan, using the overhang as handles. Spray foil with cooking spray.

Chop chocolate, and melt with butter in a bowl, over a pot of simmering water. When completely melted remove from heat. Whisk in sugar and vanilla, then the eggs. Continue whisking until smooth and glossy.

Add the dry ingredients (including 'slices' or nuts if using) until just blended. Spread batter evenly in the pan. Bake approximately 40 minutes (or until an inserted toothpick comes out clean). Cool in the pan for 5 minutes. Use foil handles to remove sheet of brownies from the pan. Cool completely on wire rack. Cut. Serve. Devour.

See you at the markets!

Mo

moira@efete.net

Labels: chestnut flour, Chestnut Growers, Green City Market, HIllside Orchards, Inc, seasonal organic produce

To Market with Mo: it's not about the sauce

Wednesday, March 31, 2010

When I hear the word 'whore', I think, 'lady of easy virture'. So when I am to meet the Pasta Puttana, I try to prepare myself for what someone, who calls them self a pasta whore, looks like. Wow...and cute, fresh-faced, natural, curly haired red-head (think Charlie Brown's adorable forever crush) was not what I had conjured up in my mind.

Now that we have the original image shaken from our head, Jessica Volpe, said Pasta Puttana, decided to turn her love of pasta into a business, so that she could encourage folks to cook good fresh food at home. And, being the whore she is for pasta, and pasta being one of the least intimidating things to cook on ones own, it was natural that it was pasta that Jessica would craft. And let me tell you, this artisanal pasta is...let's just say, it leaves me speechless.

If your idea of 'pasta nite' is a box of spaghetti laden with commercial (oh, the horror) jarred marinara, or a thick cheesy sauce, then you know what? Stick with the boxed macaroni. Jessica's pastas, made from local organic ingredients (ONLY) and that take hours to handcraft, deserve so much more. Or less, as the case may be. Just a bit of high quality olive oil, and a pinch of sea salt is all that is needed to bring out the complete and utter deliciousness of Jessica's silky ribbons of pasta.

So you want to get a bit more elaborate than salt and olive oil? On the back of each package of pasta, the pasta whore herself provides, not elaborate recipes, that can cause frustration or intimidation (depending on one's prowess in the kitchen), but great flavor pairings to help inspire one's creative culinary freedom. Oh, this is so a girl up my alley. Inspired by Jessica's suggestion to pair her whole wheat (OMG honestly, if ever turned off by a boxed whole wheat pasta, you will completely change your mind after trying Pasta Puttana's whole wheat, nutty delicious ribbons) pasta with roasted shallots, I took things a wee bit farther with the following recipe:

Mo's Springtime Whole Wheat Pasta

(2 entree or 4 appetizer servings)

1 package of Pasta Puttana Whole Wheat pappardelle

Olive oil

2 good sized shallots roasted, and silvered

1 cloves of garlic minced

1 cup sugar snap peas

1 cup fresh peas (ok, frozen will do in a pinch)

1 cup edamame (shelled, and yes, frozen works)

sea salt to taste

1-2 T fresh goat cheese (with lemon essence if you can find)

Lemon zest

Put a large pot of salted water onto boil. Meanwhile, heat (on medium high) a drizzle of olive oil in a large saute pan. Add garlic and heat till that garlicky good smell wafts to your nose. Add the snap peas, peas and edamame, and saute for a few minutes. Stir in the roasted shallots and then turn off the burner.

By now the pot of water should be boiling furiously. If so, add the pasta and stir immediately. DO NOT walk away expecting pasta to cook for 8-10 minutes, remember this is not boxed. Cook for 20 seconds (yes, you read that right. 20 seconds). Strain pasta.

Add pasta to the sauteed veggies. Toss pasta and veg together.

Divide among serving bowls, and garnish with a pinch of lemon zest and a few crumbles of goat cheese per serving. Devour pronto.

Whole wheat is only one of the rotating flavors that the Pasta Puttana crafts. Look for golden egg, white wine, roasted squash, wild mushroom, seasonal herb, fiery red chili, seasonal garlic, and perhaps, a few surprises this coming market season.

You can find Pasta Puttana pastas at the following locations:

Green City Market

Green Grocer

Dirk's Fish Market

Chicago's Downtown Farmstand

Olivia's Market

True Nature Foods

Southport Grocery

Dill Pickle Food Co-op

and through:

Irv & Shelly's Fresh Picks

See you at the markets!

Mo

moira@efete.net

Labels: artisanal food, fresh pasta, Green City Market, Pasta Puttana, seasonal organic produce

To Market with Mo: the final countdown

Friday, March 26, 2010

It's the end of March and I am now in serious 'final countdown' mode (dang, now I can't get that 80's anthem out of my head). For what? Outdoor Farmers Market season in Chicago! Only a few more indoor winter markets to go: Green City this Saturday, March 27 and two in April on the 10th and 24th. This Sunday, March 28th is the last indoor Logan Square Market for the season. Portage Park Indoor Market will happen this Saturday, March 27th and then on April 24th. And that's all until Green City kicks off the outdoor season on Wednesday, May 12th -- oh yeah, you can bet I will be there, and bright and early to boot. Ok, so on April 25th I will really be in final countdown mode, don't get me on the technicality. And anyone who knows me knows that 'countdown' really starts in early November, after the last outdoor market closes for the season.

Trust me, I so, so, so appreciate our area indoor markets, but there is something about shopping for farm fresh fruits and veg, and meats and cheeses (and let us not forget our local baked goods and artisanal food products) out in the open air. Somehow everything seems that much fresher...or so I like to think to myself. Nothing like getting to the market first thing in the morning braving elements, whether gorgeous and sunny, or cold and rainy, to get your pick of the fresh picked. Seriously great way to start the day. You laugh. Try it, you just might like it.

Get in 'count down' mode with me, and head out to the final indoor markets, for a last stock up of micro greens, root veg, potatoes, carrots, mushrooms, apples (yep, and so good), grains, milk, eggs, yoghurt, meats, honey, maple syrup, preserves, ice cream (not kidding), cheese and of course baked goods before outdoor market season begins:

Green City Indoor Market March 27, April 10 and April 24

Portage Park Indoor Market March 27 and April 24

Logan Square Indoor Market March 28 (last indoor mkt for the season)

Empty Bottle Farmers Market no April date. May TBD

See you at the markets!

Mo

P.S. am I missing any markets? If so let me know, email me at moira@efete.net

Labels: Chicago Farmers Markets, Green City Market, logan square market, portage park market, seasonal organic produce

To Market with Mo: breakin' bread

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

For some of us with Irish ancestry, one of the things we look forward to on St. Patrick's Day is Irish soda bread and brown bread. And for others of said ancestry, Irish soda bread was just something you had everyday. How envious was I of my friend, Maura Kelly, whose mom baked soda bread EVERY morning. Maura would show up to school, with still warm slices of the raisin-speckled, unleavened heaven. And yes, of course there was butter to top those slices with.

And here I always thought that Mary Poppins and Maria Von Trapp were the best 'moms' (okay not really moms but in my child mind they were great stand-ins), but here comes Mrs Kelly, a real mom, who bakes bread every morning?!? Yeah, mother of the year for sure!* I stared so longingly at Maura's slices of steaming soda bread everyday that eventually her mom took pity on me and started sending along slices to share with 'the other Moira'.

To set the record straight Mrs. Kelly's, and most of the 'irish soda breads' we have all come to know, is actually Spotted Dog. A traditional 'soda bread' contains the following ingredients period, end of story: flour, baking soda, salt, and soured milk (buttermilk). Now this is more your 'brown' bread you take with every meal variety.

Irish Brown Bread. On every table in Ireland, at every meal: breakfast, lunch and tea. Seriously I cannot get enough of the stuff when I have been a visitin'. But try to re-create that grainy goodness stateside, and it just falls short without lots of adds-ins like oat bran, wheat bran, wheat germ, and trust me, I have been tinkering with this for a long time. Until now. I have finally discovered the PERFECT organic whole wheat flour to recreate the perfect brown bread. And to think it has been right under my nose at the Green City Market the whole time. Heritage Prairie Farms stone ground organic whole wheat flour. Heritage Prairie Farms grinds whole wheat, grown by Ted's Organic Grains, to just the perfect point, leaving all the nutricious bran and germ in tact. And now once again a perfect brown bread. Slainte.

Mo's Irish Brown Bread

3 1/2 cups Heritage Prairie Farms Organic Whole Wheat Flour

1 1/2 cups unbleached white flour

3/4 cup Three Sister's Garden rolled oats (best oatmeal ever!)

2 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1/4 cup sugar (I know, not a purist)

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) cold butter, cut in small pieces

2 cups buttermilk

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Dust baking sheet with cooking spray and flour.

In a large bowl mix together flour, oats, baking soda and sugar. Using fingers or pastry cutter work in butter until it resembles coarse meal. Gradually stir in buttermilk until a dough is formed. Turned dough onto a floured work surface and knead for about one minute. Shape into a ball and place onto baking sheet. Flatten dough to about 1 1/2" high. Cut cross in the top, brush with buttermilk and sprinkle some oats on top. Bake approximately 35 minutes.

Mo

p.s. so are you hankering to get my secret recipe for Spotted Dog? email me at moira@efete.net

*seriously not fair to expect my mother of Ukrainian ancestry to bake Irish Soda Bread daily and god knows she made more than enough from scratch. I mean who bakes homemade hamburger buns?!?

Labels: Green City Market, Heritage Prairie Farms, Irish Brown Bread, seasonal organic produce, Three Sister's Garden

To Market with Mo: take me to the sugar shack

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Word has it that there is some big ball game this Sunday. Well, I suppose like everyone else, I am gonna jump on that game-watching band wagon. Hey, my team may not be playing, but I can't resist seeing what spendy, thirty-second spots, of creativity (or not) we will be graced with. Then there is always the halftime show extravaganza, this year featuring The Who -- and here I thought that I saw their "final tour" back in 1983. Opps, dating myself, but then again Roger and Pete got a lot more years on me.

Yikes, way off track here. Food and farmers markets, yeah that's what I write about....I need to figure out what to partake in during the big game, and thinking your typical chili, beer, nachos, sub sandwiches just ain't talking to me. What can I do to change things up a bit? Maple syrup of course!

Stay with me now. I am not suggesting pancakes, waffles or French toast for game time, but hey, if you got a hankering, go for it. I have long been a fan of real, yes real, not that imitation, no sign of any real maple, imposter, posing as something tapped from a tree (yes, I am talkin to you Mrs B), but real maple syrup. This would be the stuff that is actually good for you, and not just a bottle of high fructose corn syrup with a bit of flavoring. Maple syrup is loaded with antioxidants (especially the darker grade B variety), B vitamins, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorous, iron and zinc. Can you say yes, to strengthening the immune system, or what?

And, can we talk flavor? There is no comparing imitation to the real amber liquid, with the an sweet earthy flavor like no other. And when that real maple syrup is local? Oh yes. Coming from just over the eastern border in southern Indiana, is Burton's Maplewood Farm, who produces incredible grade A and grade B maple syrups. Burton's Maplewood Farm can always be found at Green City Market. Now don't be shy, go ahead and ask them for tastes of the syrups. They are more than happy to let you sample, and more than happy to explain the difference between the grade A and B syrups. Personally I prefer the headier grade B, now that is maple.

I love using maple syrup to glaze salmon, carrots or green beans, or drizzled on a grapefruit half (thrown under the broiler, oh trust me on this), or as part of an oil-free salad dressing (just equal parts of balsamic vinegar and maple syrup) and you have some happy greens. But, back to the 'big' game. I know that I said none of the typical options were talkin' to me, but I have to take that back. Chicken wings are talkin' to me. But how about bourbon maple-glazed instead of hot sauce and butter? And thinking we need a cocktail to go with that....now, how's that for game time dining?

Mo's Mapletini

2 oz. orange infused light rum (ok, not picky, you want dark rum or bourbon instead? go for it)

3/4 oz. fresh lemon juice

1/2 oz. maple syrup (grade A)

slice of orange or twist of lemon for garnish

Combine first three ingredients in cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake, shake, shake. Strain into martini glass. Garnish with citrus.

Mo's Maple Bourbon Glazed Wings

3 lbs chicken wings (split at joint and tips removed)

coarse salt and pepper

1/4 cup bourbon

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice

2-3 T maple syrup (grade B)

1 heaping teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon smoked tabasco

3-4 T butter

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place wings on a baking sheet, in a single layer, and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 45 minutes (til they start to brown and crisp).

Make sauce by combining the remaining ingredients in a bowl. Zap in the microwave for about 2 minutes (til butter is melted). Remove wings from the oven and pour sauce over the wings. Let the wings marinate for about 20-30 minutes. Now, if you are up for grilling, may I suggest grilling the marinated wings for 8-12 minutes. If not grilling, go ahead and finish in the oven for another 15-20 minutes.

See you at the markets,

Mo

moira@efete.net

Labels: Burton's Maplewood Farm, fresh food sources, game time dine, Green City Market, maple syrup

To Market with Mo: "Please sir, may I have some more?"

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

January has the honor of being the national month of Eye Health Care, Bath Safety, Skating, Shape up US, Hot Tea, Soup (which I want to switch to February, but hey, that's my issue), Fiber Focus, Prune Breakfast (see previous entry), and Oatmeal (again, see Fiber). I could go on, believe it or not, as there are a lot more of these honors, for the month of January. But it is the oatmeal that I want to talk about. Sexy, right? I don't know, I think I can make a case for putting sexy into oatmeal. Or, would it be oatmeal putting the sexy into us? Afterall, oatmeal is so, so good for you. Loaded with complex carbs, fiber, vitamins like B & E, zinc (hello cold fighter, nothing sexy about a runny nose), not to mention a whole lot of other minerals, and last but not least, protein. Consume oatmeal on a regular basis, and you can't help but be healthy, and quite frankly, healthy is pretty sexy. I'm just saying....

Now, your commercial varieties of steel cut, rolled, or dare I say instant, are pretty darn good for you: they can all claim to help aid digestion, stabilize blood glucose levels, lower cholesterol, and reduce your risk of heart disease. Now, do you want to up the healthy factor and the tasty factor (yeah, a lot of oatmeal needs a bit of help in the tasty arena. Hey, I am a huge fan, but we all know it needs to be flavor enhanced a bit) then may I suggest a visit to Green City Market this winter (pssst, the next market day for Green City is February 13th) and a stop at the Three Sisters Garden booth. This is the source for a sweet, nutty, wonderful cross between steel cut and rolled oatmeal, that frankly, is the best I have ever tried. And trust me, I have tried a lot of oatmeal in my day.

Three Sisters Garden is actually run by two, not three, women who decided to hang up their chefs toques, to produce food. So, how cool is it to know that the oatmeal that you eat, will have only been touched by four hands: from sowing, to harvesting, to cutting, to rolling, to packaging. And unlike most oatmeal, which by the time it gets to us has not been in it's natural state for months, if not well, much longer, Three Sisters Garden oatmeal will get to you between 24-48 hours after it has been gently hand 'rolled'. Now that is fresh.

Once you get your Three Sisters Garden oats home, it is best to store in them in the fridge, and use within a couple of weeks. If you can't use them that fast go ahead and store them in the freezer. Now, don't automatically lean toward 'putting them away in the freezer' cause you just don't have time to make 'real' oatmeal in the morning. Do like the Scots and Irish: soak your oats in water overnite, with a wee bit of salt. The next morning heat it up for a few minutes on the stove and voila, hot cereal to start your day. Now if you do have the time to make your oatmeal in the morning, then I would suggest treating it like risotto and stir, stir, stir for a creamy bowl of oats. Not to worry, Three Sisters Garden oatmeal will not turn into a globby, gluey mess, but will still maintain a wonderful 'risotto-like' bite.

To keep my standard winter breakfast (yeah, you guessed it, oatmeal) interesting, I change it up daily. Mix-ins vary from milk or yoghurt, raisins, dates, and other dried fruits, to pumpkin (don't knock it, seriously good, and takes care of your beta carotene consumption for the day), protein powder, honey or maple syrup, and granola (which these oats are a great base for a homemade version). And sometimes, like this morning, I don't even cook the oats, but go the Swiss museli route, and just let the oats soak in some yoghurt, or milk overnite, add some honey and berries in the morning, and breakfast perfection. But after chatting with Tracey from Three Sisters Garden, I am totally inspired to take oatmeal to the savory side...can you say oatmeal with mushrooms, a crumbly dry goat cheese, and tasso ham. Oh my heck, who needs the risotto?!?

See you at the market,

Moira

moira@efete.net

p.s. have a fav recipe you use your steel-cut or rolled oats in? send my way to moira@efete.net

Labels: Chicago Farmers Market, Green City Market, seasonal organic produce, Three Sisters Garden

To Market with Mo: I wanna thank you....

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Even in a trying year, as 2009 has been, there are so many things to be thankful for. And, related to the farmers markets I have alot to be thankful for.

I am thankful....

....to live in a city that supports and gives us access to produce that has been grown/raised within a few hours drive, via the farmers markets.

...to the staff and volunteers, at all of the farmer's markets, who because of their passion for the markets, give their time to make sure each market day goes smoothly and is an enjoyable experience.

...to all the farmers (and food purveyors) who work tirelessly to grow, harvest, and get their crops (food products) to market, at the peak of flavor and in pristine condition. Not too mention that they rose in the middle of the nite to get their produce to market. Yes, we market 'early birds' REALLY appreciate their effort. That includes you Todd Nichols ;)

...to the Bensidoun family for bringing Chicago it's first year round indoor market: The Chicago French Market.

...to all of the city neighborhoods who feel strongly about bringing a farmers market to their neighbors. A special shout out here to the Andersonville Farmer's Market's first season, and an extremely successful one at that.

...to be able to experience produce and artisan-crafted food products at their peak, and in season.

...for midwestern weather. Seriously. With all it's extreme ups and downs, it plays a huge roll in making the tastiest tomatoes and peaches on the planet.

...to all the markets that are working to make their markets accessible to everyone, not just the few. A special recognition to the 61st Street Market for being one of the first markets to accept food stamps.

...to all of the area chefs that are making a point of supporting the local markets and farmers, and letting their customers know where their meal is coming from.

...for the diversity of the people of this city, and their insistence that their own foods (culturally speaking) are represented at the markets.

...for Terra Brockman and her beautiful book, "The Season's on Henry's Farm", that chronicles a year on her brothers farm. Not only showing us all that sustainable farming is good for us and our planet, but giving us an even greater appreciation for those that grow our food.

...for all of you that share my enthusiasm for the markets, the farmers, the food purveyors and artisans, and to those of you that tolerate said enthusiasm, even if you don't share the same enthusiasm. Don't worry, I'll convert you in 2010.

...and for you my readers, for reading and following my market wanders.

A very happy holiday to all of you and here's to the coming year at the markets.

Moira

moira@efete.net

Labels: 61st St Market, Andersonville Farmers Market, Chicago Farmers Markets, Chicago French Market, Green City Market, Henry's Farm, Nichols Farm, Terra Brockman

To Market with Mo: the incredible edible

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

In this season of gift giving, hens, okay other birds as well but let's stick with chickens for the sake of this conversation, have come up with the perfect gift, and the perfect way to package it: the egg. Truly a perfect food for both the novice and the seasoned cook alike. You can boil water? You can hard boil an egg. Or prefer to stretch your culinary wings? Go for mastering a beautiful meringue or Bearnaise sauce.

I don't recall being a huge fan of the egg until I had my first farm fresh egg. I finally so so got 'the incredible edible egg' slogan. If you have only had grocery store eggs (that can have the potential of sitting on the store shelf for up to 180 days, and have been hatched by debeaked, molted, declawed and caged hens, oh but don't get me going on this one) then let me tell you, get to the Farmers Market soon and buy yourself some farm fresh eggs, that are maybe a day or two old and most likely only hours old, get home and fry up a couple of the eggs and yes, you will thank me, and your egg farmer. What a difference! You're an egg fan now right?

Now I know eggs used to get a really bad rap, raising cholesterol and increasing risk of heart disease....yeah yeah yeah. Well unless you have high cholesterol and are already at risk for heart disease, there is no reason not to be able to consume a egg daily if you so like. The human body does not easily absorb the cholesterol in the egg (which is housed in the yolk), so you are pretty much good to get all the nutritional bennies of the egg which is a fantastic source of protein, omega 3 fatty acids, lutein, choline, iron, calcium, potassium, vitamins A, all the B's, and D. And in case you were going to opt for the 'egg white only' omelet? Sure you will get protein and water (plain and simple, that's what's in the white) but you will miss out on all of the other vitamins and minerals.

Speaking of nutrition levels. I want to clear up something, there is no nutritional difference between a white shelled or brown shelled egg. Only difference? The breed of hen that laid the egg. Another question, why is one yolk pale yellow, and another almost orange? That you will need to ask your farmer what he/she is feeding their hens, as it is their diet that determines yolk color.

I can't think of a time of year that I go through more eggs what with all the cookie & cake baking, sauce making, and dishes to pass making (think a retro deviled egg or a brunchy egg casserole). Oh, which reminds me, your freshest eggs (think less than 10 days old and the ones you just got at the market) are best for poaching and frying. And for hard boiling and making meringues and souffles? Hold off on using your eggs right away. an 'older' egg, say older than 10 days, is best for these endeavors. Here is a favorite brunch dish which is not only easy to make, but a crowd pleaser.

Nutty Baked French Toast

One loaf sliced white bread (I actually prefer a challah bread for this one but mix it up)

8 eggs

2 cups each: milk, 1/2 & 1/2

2 t vanilla extract

1/2 t each: cinnamon, ground nutmeg

3/4 c butter, softened

1 1/3 c brown sugar, packed

3 T dark corn syrup

1 1/3 c nuts, coarsely chopped (walnuts or pecans or a combo work well)

Fill a greased 13" x 9" pan with bread slices to within 1" of the top of the pan.

Blend together eggs, milk, 1/2&1/2, vanilla, nutmeg and cinnamon in a large bowl. Pour over bread slices. Cover and refrigerate overnite.

Combine butter, brown sugar, corn syrup and nuts in a medium bowl and set aside.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Remove pan of 'toast' from the fridge, spread the topping all over the top. Bake until puffed and golden brown, approximately 50 minutes. If starts to brown too quickly cover with foil and continue to cook.

Serve with real maple syrup (try Burton's Maplewood Farm's, you can find them at Green City Market on Saturdays)

The following vendors have eggs at the Saturday Green City Winter Market...

Eliss Farm

Liberty Family Farm

Mint Creek Farm

TJ's Free Range Poultry

Share your favorite ways to cook with eggs at moira@efete.net

Labels: Chicago Farmers Markets, Eggs, Eliss Farm, Green City Market, Liberty Family Farm, Mint Creek Farm, seasonal organic produce, Tj's Free Range Poultry

To Market with Mo: Single. Plain looks, but intense.

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

No, not me. I'm talking about the humble onion, whose name derives from the Latin word for single, unio, which also means the union of many layers. Can't be a clearer description for the appearance of this plain-looking, solo bulb. And to clarify, I am talking the dry globe (or round, or bulb) onion, not your scallion or shallot, we can chat about them later....

With all the cooking going on in kitchens all over the States this week, I can't think of a more indispensable ingredient. Come to think of it, at any other day or time of the year, and in kitchens all over the globe, not just the US, are using onions. Seriously, what can't these allium cepas do? Let's just take the Thanksgiving menu. Onions take a solo turn as a creamed side, or pickled for snacking, or in someone's game time Bloody Mary or pre-dinner martini, and then assisting in pretty much every dish (okay, not the pumpkin pie): the stuffing, gravy, cranberry chutney or relish, sauteed in greens, potatoes and other veg, and of course as a topping for that infamous green bean casserole.

Oh, how many sauces, soups, stews and sautes have depended on the onion to add either a sharp pungent bite, or spicy sweet layer or flavor? I mean, what would a bowl of homemade chicken soup be without onions? I'm thinking not so flavorful, and with all the phytonutrients, vitamins and anti-inflammatory properties, not such a great remedy for the common cold. That darn chicken gets all the credit, I actually think it is the onion that gives this soup it's medicinal pow. Then again, I'm not a doctor, nor do I play one on TV. I'm just a gal who has had a lot of chicken soup when fighting colds and flu. But I digress...

Look for firm onions with dry outer layers of parchment-like skins that protect the inner pungent layers. And store your onions in a cool dark place, not the fridge. Well, let me take that back a little. You want to try and avoid any tears while cutting up the onion? Place your onion in the fridge for about an hour before you intend to cut into it, and you will stifle the allicin which the nasty bugger that brings on the tears. And if chilling thing does not work? Go right for the scuba mask.

Now need a quick and easy way to bring a bit more flavor to your Thanksgiving feast without having to do anymore shopping? Caramelize some onions. Need another appetizer? Caramelized onions as a crostini topper. Sick of that 'green bean casserole'? Go for fresh beans sauteed, and then topped with the caramelized onions. Want something other than cranberry sauce to moisten up that late nite turkey sandwich? Caramelized onions. And so sick of turkey by the end of the weekend and craving a juicy burger or grilled cheese? Slather on some, yep, you guessed it, caramelized onions.

Caramelized Onions

2 lbs onions (go ahead mix 'em up, Vidalia, Troppea, Spanish, Bermuda), sliced thin

2 T olive oil

2 T butter

salt & pepper to taste

In a skillet over low heat, heat oil and butter. Add the onions and cook low and slow, for about 45-60 minutes. Stirring occasionally. Add salt and pepper while cooking. Want to change it up a bit? Add about 2 tablespoons of either balsamic or red wine vinegar or some red wine and a bit of thyme while cooking, preferably added just after the onions have softened and gone translucent. The onions are done when they are nicely brown and caramely (please accept my made-up word).

Have a safe and delicious Thanksgiving!

Mo

moira@efete.net

Labels: Chicago Farmers Markets, Green City Market, onions, seasonal organic produce

To Market with Mo: a morning glory...sort of

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

I love sweet potatoes any time of the year, but being mid-November and all, seems like it is the most appropriate time to talk about this nutrient-packed, sweet tuber.

First off, let's set the record straight: a sweet potato is not, I repeat not, a yam. This is a total misnomer. Sweet potato: native of South America and related to the morning glory. Yam: native of Africa and related to the lily. Seems the whole 'yam' calling got started early on in the States, most likely by slaves who were reminded of the true yams that they consumed as a staple back in Africa. Even those cans of 'yams'? Yeah, sweet potato.

Now onto the second thing that has bugged me about this starchy root veg. With a pretty descriptive adjective as the first part of your name, why on earth have generations consumed their traditional Thanksgiving sweet potatoes laden with brown sugar, maple syrup, or honey, and of all things, marshmallows? I mean, whose idea was that?!? Great for dessert but as a savory side? Hum. And why, with a first name like 'sweet' did anyone not think, "Wouldn't this tuber be able to stand alone without all the added sugars?" Oh and let's not forget the globs of butter. Cook a 'soft' sweet potato and it is not only sugary sweet, but wonderfully moist as well, really no need for the butter. Just give me an unadorned baked sweet potato and I convince myself that I am having dessert and dinner all rolled into one. Woohoo! Okay, you know I still had to have the piece of dark chocolate post-potato, but that is a another story for another day...

Back to 'soft' sweet potato. Seeing two varieties at the markets: 'soft', which are the orange-fleshed root veg we are most familiar with, and 'firm' which are typically white or yellow-fleshed and remain fairly firm after cooking, but still oh so delectably sweet. I actually prefer the 'firm' sweets when roasting as they hold up better when wanting to achieve that dark, crispy crust.

Both 'soft' and 'firm' versions, of this complex-carb, are nutrient-rich powerhouses, jam-packed with fiber, vitamins C, B6 and A (in the form of beta-carotene). Another plus? Sweet potatoes help stabilize blood sugar and lower insulin resistance. And calories? At approximately 11o calories for a medium sweet spud, this is one serving of 'candy' that one does not have to feel guilty about eating.

At the market look for firm, smooth-skinned tubers, free of any bruises or cracks. Get them home and store in a cool, dark, ventilated place, and NOT the fridge. Okay, once cooked you can store them in the fridge for up to a week. Besides the 'traditional' Thanksgiving side, sweet potatoes play both sides of the sweet and savory fence scrumptiously: baked, roasted, boiled, fried (chips or fries anyone?), or mashed, and as latkes, pie, biscuits, puddings, and brownies (oh trust me on this one). Now, looking for something a bit less traditional to add to your Thanksgiving menu? How about a sweet potato hummus with veggies and pita chips, to tied everyone over until the big feast?

Sweet Potato Hummus

1 lb sweet potato, cooked (baked or boiled)

1 15 oz can of chick peas (garbanzo beans), drained and rinsed

1/4 cup lemon juice (fresh and not that bottled 'excuse for')

1/4 cup tahini

2 T olive oil

2 t cumin

2 cloves garlic

1/4 t chili pepper (ground)

dash of nutmeg

salt and pepper to taste

Place all ingredients, except the olive oil, into a food processor. Begin to process. Slowly stream olive oil in while food processor is running. Continue to process until smooth. Add additional salt and pepper, to taste, if needed.

Serve with crudite and pita chips...not marshmallows.

Labels: Chicago Farmers Markets, Green City Market, seasonal organic produce, sweet potato, thanksgiving

To Market with Mo: tap that root

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

I cannot believe I have not hailed the nutritious and delicious carrot until now. After all, it is one of the first veg I see at the Farmer's markets in the Spring, in a tiny and tender form just crying to be paired with mint. Then throughout the summer, hinting to be transformed not by cooking but simply shredded into a salad, or added to a crudite platter. And now in the Fall, one of the last veg to find, and so wanting to be part of a mirepoix to start a favorite soup or stew, or as a quick saute with a favorite partner: maple syrup.

Packed with vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and fiber, especially beta-carotene and vitamin A. Now, vitamin A and beta-carotene are both great for eyesight, but how good might have been a wee bit exaggerated thanks to some WWII RAF gunners who claimed their nighttime marksmanship skills were due to copious carrot consumption and not new technology (aka radar). Hey, that's one way to fool the enemy. But if it led to more British children (who I am sure recall, "Dr. Carrot, the children's best friend" wartime slogan) and Germans eating more carrots, well, it sure beats the 'Flaming Hot Cheeto' orange food option, right?

And in a flu and cold season that has everyone coughing, I am thinking more doctors should be prescribing this flavorful root veg. Yeah, not only good for the eyes, but fantastic for the lungs, especially those that are inflamed.

I have not quite seen all of the over 100 varieties available, but trust me, you will find more than the standard orange and faux baby carrot (Yeah, you read me right, faux. Grocery store 'baby' carrots are actually mature carrots chiseled down to the uniform 2" 'baby') you find at the supermarket. Beautiful orange, red, purple, yellow, white carrots, and all with their own unique fragrant sweetness, can be found at the Farmer's markets.

Look for smooth, firm carrots with vibrant color. Avoid those that are limp, rubbery, cracked, or have wilted tops. Store, this cousin of the parsley, in a plastic bag or wrapped in paper towel, in the coolest part of the fridge, where they can keep for up to two weeks. Oh, and store away from apples, potatoes, or pears elst you can wind up with rather bitter tasting carrots.

Here is a simple and seasonal way to enjoy carrots now and in a few weeks, as a Thanksgiving side...

Maple Glazed Carrots

1 1/2 lb carrots, scrubbed clean and cut into 3 " long strips (or 1/4" coins if you prefer)

1/2 cup water

3 T butter

2 T maple syrup (try Burton's Maplewood Farm, found at Green City Market, yum)

1 T brown sugar

salt and pepper to taste

In a large skillet, over medium high heat, bring all ingredients to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, cover and simmer for approximately 8 minutes.

Uncover skillet and continue to cook until all liquid is reduced to a glaze consistency, about 5 minutes).

Season with salt and pepper to taste.

FYI - to all you last minute shoppers, Green City Market will be open Wed., Nov. 25th, the day before Thanksgiving. Can't get fresher than that!

Speaking of Thanksgiving, I would love to hear about your favorite Thanksgiving side dishes. Send me your recipies to moira@efete.net

Labels: Burton's Maplewood Farm, carrots, Chicago Farmers Markets, Green Acres, Green City Market, maple syrup, Nichols Farm, seasonal organic produce

To Market with Mo: lil' green sprout

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Shake your heads in disbelief but I have always loved Brussels sprouts. Yes, even as a kid, I was a fan of the mini cabbages, guess I was first taken in by their 'cute' factor. I mean, how can you not love a veg in miniature form? And yes, Brussels sprouts are basically a many-headed common cabbage. So why not call the veg Hydra Sprouts? Since it is not a native of Greece but most likely Belgium I suppose, but I digress.

Now for those of you who detest this harmless cruciferous veg, I am guessing you had a bad, bad experience with an over-cooked dish of sprouts. Not hard to believe since some of us grew up when mothers and grandmothers were still cooking the heck out vegetables. Gratefully, I did not have that experience. I imagine that my first bite of sprouts were fresh not frozen, perfectly cooked, and were actually quite sweet and pleasing. Come on, why else would I have stuck with them? And it wasn't until adulthood that I really got a taste of how sweet they could be when I finally tried roasting them. Seriously, yum.

Now for those that want to give Brussels sprouts another go, may I suggest pairing them with one of their favorite partners: Bacon. What is not to love about bacon? And bacon is something I did not like as a kid, clearly that has changed. Vegetarian or not a fan of the bacon? Brussels sprouts also like to hang out with chestnuts (thank the Belgians for this, and they too are popping up at the Farmers Markets), lemon or cream, just to name a few. And lately it's become rather popular to shred the little cabbages. Blanching them slightly, shredding, and turing into a favorite Fall and Winter salad. And if all this isn't reason enough, then perhaps their being absolutely vitamin, antioxidant, and fiber packed, can at least guilt you into trying them again? For your health and all...I'm just saying...

Back to the 'overcooking' thing for a moment. How to avoid overcooking and turning your sprouts into a sulfurous mess? If boiling or steaming do so for no more than 6-7 minutes. Braising or sauteing a bit more forgiving at about 10-12 minutes. And roasting? You can let them go for about 35-40 minutes at 400 degrees.

Look for small, tightly closed, firm, bright green sprouts, either on the stalk or off. Avoid any with yellowing or wilted leaves, or any that seem too soft and puffy. Store your sprouts, unwashed and untrimmed, in a plastic bag in the fridge for up to a week.

Now my absolute favorite way to eat Brussels sprouts is the simplest preparation -- wash and trim your sprouts (cut in half if on the larger side), toss with some olive oil, salt and pepper and roast in a 400 degree oven for 35-40 minutes. But since you are going to begin to think that is all I do with Fall vegetables, here is a salad starring the leafy green buds.

Brussels Sprout Salad

1 lb Brussels sprouts, washed, trimmed and cooked (boil or steam whole)

2 strips bacon, diced and cooked until crispy

1/4 cup toasted pecans (or walnuts if you prefer)

1/4 cup sliced red onion (want more? go for it, don't let me stop you)

1 1/2 oz. crumbled blue, goat or feta cheese

Olive oil

Balsamic vinegar

Salt & pepper to taste.

Toss the first five ingredients together. Drizzle on some olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Add some salt and pepper to taste. Toss again. How easy was that?

p.s. reminder, last outdoor market is this Saturday in Evanston. Green City and the Logan Square Markets have moved indoors. The French Market in the Olglivie Center is slated to open the week of November 16th. Do you know of any other indoor markets this Fall and Winter? Send me an email at moira@efete.net so that I can share to scoop.

Labels: Brussels sprouts, Chicago Farmers Markets, Green City Market, Logan Square Farmers Market, seasonal organic produce

To Market with Mo: I'm Not Ginger

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

"I am not ginger. I am not from Jerusalem. I am not an artichoke. I am not an apple. What I am is a North American tuber, related to the sunflower, with a curiously sweet, nutty, earthy flavor," so says the Jerusalem Artichoke, or as known in some circles, the Sunchoke.

The native American indians, who had been eating said tuber for some time, called it 'sun root', hey makes sense, root of a sunflower relation. Okay, that I get. But leave it to European explorers to confuse matters. 'Hum, tastes kind of like an artichoke, and since my Italian not so good (being a French explorer and all) I think I will call this knobby little tuber an Artichoke of Jerusalem, instead of the italian word for sunflower that I was really looking for - girasole.' Okay, maybe that is not a direct quote from 17th century explorers, but you get the idea.

So sunchoke, which was trademarked in the 1960's, seems to be a most accurate name for this potassium packed gnarly root. How this delicious veg fell out of favor is beyond me. Word has it that it was thought that the Jerusalem Artichoke caused leporsy. Another victim of being judged by it's cover. Thank goodness that little rumor faded and we can find sunchokes at the markets right now. Look for firm, plump tubers free of any sprouts, mold or any green tinge.

At home, store your chokes in the fridge for up to two weeks wrapped in plastic. But why wait so long? So easy to cook up. What? You dread the chore of peeling them? Don't let that stop you, the skins are so tender I wouldn't even bother peeling. Just give them a good scrub and then enjoy raw in salads or crudite, or start cooking. Mashed, sauteed, roasted, boiled, fried as chips, or added to soups and stir-fries, it's all good.

Since this is the last week for most outdoor Chicago area Farmers Markets, (FYI, Evanston's still going until November 7th!) I went a little hog wild buying alot of Fall produce. So time to get out the roasting pan and roast up some sunchokes with the abundance of Brussels Sprouts, sweet potatoes and winter squash that I felt compelled to bring home. No recipe here. Just prep and cut veg into one inch pieces, toss with some olive oil, salt, pepper and thyme (if so inclined), in a roasting pan, pop into a 400 degree oven for about 45 minutes and there you go, fantastic side, or if like me, something to snack on all day - hey, better for you than chips or chocolate.

P.S. Since the outdoor Farmers Markets are closing up for the season bet you are wondering, 'what now Mo?' Well, seeking out indoor farmers markets (fyi, Green City moves indoors starting November 4th, www.chicagogreencitymarket.org, and rumor has it that the Logan Square Farmers Market is moving indoors as well, www.logansquarefarmersmarket.org), and seeking out some of the incredible food products (like honey, maple syrup, cheeses, chocolates, jams and gelatos) that are made by food artisans right here in the Chicago area.

Do you have a favorite indoor Farmers Market or locally made food product? I would love to hear about it. Shoot me a note at moira@efete.net. See you at the markets.

Labels: Chicago Farmers Markets, Green City Market, Jerusalem Artichoke, seasonal organic produce, Sunchoke, tuber

To Market with Mo: Celery's Ugly Cousin

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Celery Root. Celeriac. Hum, just don't know where to begin with you. I just sit here staring at you and....nothing. Awfully American of me I suppose. Not only do we Yanks want you to taste good, but gosh darn it, you better have some good looks that indicate such. But you? You, you, you just don't send off that 'good looks, equals good taste' signal with your, how shall I say, your, not so appealing looks. Sorry.

Clearly the French don't judge taste 'by the cover' as they are big big fans of celeriac. I mean, can you walk into a bistro in France and not find celeri remoulade on the menu? Oui, I thought not.

Get past that brownish, gnarly exterior, I suggest a paring knife as opposed to a vegetable peeler, and underneath lies a smooth,milky-white, aromatic flesh. The smell and taste are refreshing, grassy, nutty, and kind of lemony all at once. And yes, as the name implies, a bit like celery. Celeriac loves to be paired with apples, parsley, potatoes, lemon, and what it does with cream? Heaven. It adds a great crunch to any salad or crudite platter. And cooked? Glazed, roasted, mashed, as a gratin, or added to soups and stews, on it's own, or with other root and Fall veg, delish.

For all you carb counters out there, celeriac, which is only about 5% starch, is a great stand in for the spud and is low cal, and high in fiber and vitamin K to boot. Right now (Fall) is the best time of year to enjoy celery root at it's peak. Look for firm and unblemished roots about the size of a baseball. Once peeled, you will loose about a quarter or the root so factor that in when cooking.

Though a huge fan of the celeri remoulade, the cooler days just say soup to me. As soup, celeriac cooks down into silky sublimeness in a bowl. And with truffle oil to boot? oh la la, say moi.

Celeriac & Potato Soup with Truffle Oil

(adapted from 'Jamie's Kitchen' by Jamie Oliver)

I medium white or yellow onion, chopped

1 1/2 tablespoon butter

4 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 small bunch of thyme, tied with a string (or sub 3/4 tablespoon dry thyme)

3 cups (just over a pound) celeriac, peeled and diced

3 cups potatoes (a floury not waxy variety), peeled and diced

2 pints chicken stock

7 tablespoons heavy cream (honestly this soup is great without it but go for it, who doesn't love a bit of cream?)

sea or kosher salt and cracked black pepper to taste.

4 tablespoons truffle oil (if you don't have, don't stress this soup can stand alone)

Optional garnish

(chopped parsley & celery leaves tossed with olive oil and lemon juice. sprinkle on soup just before serving)

In soup pot, saute onion in butter and olive oil for about 5 minutes, or until onion is tender and translucent.

Add celeriac, potatoes, thyme and stock to the pot. Bring to a boil and then simmer for about 40 minutes, until the veg are tender. Add cream, if going there. Bring to a boil again, the remove bundle of thyme. Remove pot from stove top. Puree mixture, in batches, in a food processor or blender, or break out the 'boat motor' (aka handblender) and puree away.

Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add truffle oil a tablespoon at a time until desired flavor is reached (strength of flavor can vary depending on brand and whether using black or white truffle oil).

Divide among soup bowls and garnish with parsley-celery leaf salad.

moira@efete.net

Labels: celeriac, celery root, Chicago Famers Makets, Green City Market, root vegetables, seasonal organic produce

To Market with Mo: First Fruit

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Red Delicious, Macoun, Northern Spy, Winesap, Swiss Gourmet, Braeburn, Gala, Mutsu, Sweet Sixteen, Liberty, whoa, stop me here. If I continue to list the approximately 7500 known varieties of apples in the world, I would far exceed my roughly 500 word or less (okay, don't go counting each entry word-for-word now) per blog entry limit. And, if I attempted to sample each variety? Well, let's just say I would be eating an apple a day for the next twenty years. Hey, one way to keep the 'doctor away.'

Now, I know you can probably get your hands on a few varieties of apples at the grocery store year round, but before you go and settle, get yourself out to the Farmers Market ( I know that there are at least a few still running outdoors thru the end of October) and treat yourself to some Illinois, Michigan, and Indiana apples they way they were meant to be enjoyed. Fresh from the farm, and free of wax and shellac coatings and nasty irradiants and preservatives (yeah, this explains why that store-bought apple you cut into and forgot on the counter, still hasn't turned brown after a couple of hours) and full of flavor. Yes, flavor. Most commercially grown apples have had the flavor bred right out of them, producing a good-looking, but bland and (as termed by the commercial growers, not me) 'neutral' flavored piece of fruit.

Get to the market and discover what apples really taste like. And those flavors are as diverse as the names. Oh, and looks ain't everything either. Take the 'Twenty Ouncer' for instance -- a huge and rather russeted and bumpy (like, no other way to say it, bad acne) surface. Bite into it and you will never judge an apple by the surface again. Besides the Orange Cox Pippin and the Honey Crisp, I think the Twenty Ouncer is one of my favorites this season. But don't go on my tastebuds alone, plenty of the Farmers Market vendors are more than happy to give you samples of varieties you are unfamiliar with. And they are more than happy to explain the nuances of each variety. Why Nichols Farm alone grows about 167 varieties of apples.

Look for fragrant, firm and tight-skinned apples. Bruising, bad. Russeting (patches and stripes of different colors), good. Lots of fiber, lots of flavanoids, lots of antioxidants, lots of tannins, and low in calories, no wonder we should be eating them 'once a day.' Enjoy as is, sliced into salad, or slipped into a grilled cheese sandwich, Cook down into sauce (just cored, peeled and sliced apples, a squeeze of lemon, a little water, cinnamon, if you like, and that's it, just some time on the stove), bake into a pie or crisp, add to soup, roast or grill to accompany pork or chicken, or as below, on a perfect salad for this time of year.

Roasted Apple Salad

2 medium apples

olive oil

salt & cracked black pepper

1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary (optional)

mixed baby greens

Stilton or favorite blue cheese

favorite vinaigrette (a dijon works nicely)

honey for drizzling

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Cut apples in half and core. Place apples flesh-side up in a baking dish. Drizzle olive oil and sprinkle salt, pepper and rosemary on the apples.

Roast apples for 20 minutes. Remove from oven.

Toss salad greens with vinaigrette and divide among 4 salad plates. Place one apple half on each plate of greens. Then top each with a slice of stilton and a drizzle of honey. Kick it up a bit more with a sprinkling of toasted walnuts or pecans.

moira@efete.net

Labels: apples, Chicago Farmers Markets, Green City Market, seasonal organic produce

To Market with Mo: The Cabbage Flower

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Big, big, blow to the food world this week. The 70 year old chronicler of all things food, Gourmet, will cease with the November '09 issue. Wha?!? Noooooooo, say it isn't so. Gourmet has been my constant companion in the kitchen for more years than I care to admit with this crowd. Admittedly, I did cheat and invite other food/cooking magazines into the kitchen, but I have to say Gourmet has always been my favorite and with me the longest.

Between my old friend leaving and Fall rushing in (guess I really need to switch out my closet full of summer clothes) I need me some comfort food. Cauliflower of course. Again I can hear you saying 'what?' How can this crunchy, slightly sulphurous, and bitter veg be considered a 'comfort food'? Roasting baby. Suddenly, okay maybe more like in 25 minutes, cauliflower is transformed into sweet and nutty deliciousness. If you were not a fan of this member of the cabbage family before, you will be after a bite of it in it's roasted state.

Once you go roasted you might further branch out from the raw florets on a crudite platter to a velvety puree or mash, or a creamy soup. But back to that crudite platter for a moment. With such beautiful varieties like the vitamin A packed orange Cheddar, the purple varieties that are full of the antioxidant anthocyanin (see, red wine isn't the only way to get this antioxidant), and then there is the gorgeous green Romanesco with it's spiky curd (yeah, the 'head' is actually a collection of curds or underdeveloped flowers, go figure), not only will you be loading up on lots of healthy goodness (all are low-cal, high in fiber and high in vitamins C and K), but your platter will be knock out good looking.

Get to the farmers market and look for clean compact heads (oh, curds), that are spot-free and have bright color. Those that are wrapped in lots of fresh green leaves are being kept nice and fresh (and keep those leaves and stem for stock or soups). And size? Doesn't matter, whatever suits your needs or likes. Store your cauliflower in a plastic or paper bag, stem side down, in the fridge, for up to a week.

Typically I roast my cauliflower in just a bit of olive oil, garlic salt and pepper, but in the interest of keeping my husband healthy, I added some turmeric. Studies have shown that combining turmeric and cauliflower is a terrific way to preserve prostate health, not a lot of prostate cancer in India I am guessing.

Roasted Cauliflower

1 medium to large head of cauliflower

2 cloves of garlic, chopped

1 teaspoon turmeric

1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

salt & cracked black pepper to taste

1-2 tablespoons 'plumped'* golden raisins (optional)

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Core and cut cauliflower into 1 inch florets. Toss the cauliflower with olive oil, turmeric, garlic, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Spread the cauliflower evenly, in a single layer, on a baking sheet with sides (jelly roll pan). Roast cauliflower until it is golden and tender, approximately 25 minutes.

*Plumped = raisins soaked in hot water for 10 minutes.

moira@efete.net

Labels: cauliflower, Chicago Farmers Markets, Green City Market, Romanesco broccoli, seasonal organic produce

To Market with Mo: Pick a Peck of Peppers

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

It might not have been a stellar tomato season (though for some reason I am still picking tomatoes from the garden, hum) but there are loads of peppers to be had at the Farmers Markets right now. Now, let's be clear as confusion can ensue when referring to 'peppers'. Am I talking pepper as in the black, pink, green and white peppercorns that we grind? Nope, I am talking the nightshades that are capsicums, and here, there is a vast variety that range in shape, color, size (even within the same species) and then there is a big swing in the heat scale.

What is it that makes say a bell pepper sweet and a scotch bonnet pepper mui caliente? The highly variable amount of capsaicin in each species. Contrary to popular belief, the 'heat' (capsaicin) is not in the seeds, but the white pith of the pepper that the seeds cling to. And here's an interesting tidbit, unlike we mammals, birds are completely immune to the capsaicin burn, go figure. Our winged friends are attracted by the bright colors of the peppers and from there get to work spreading the seeds. No wonder peppers are so popular globally.

To avoid any confusion I am talking the heatless varieties that we will call 'peppers' or 'capsicum' (like our Brit & Aussie friends). The hot varieties are referred to as 'chilis'.

Speaking of the bright colors, not only have I seen the immature green, but fully mature red, orange, purple, yellow, ivory and even brown peppers as well at the markets. All are sweet and pack, pack, packed with antioxidants like carotenoids (a natural sunscreen for the peppers themselves), lutien and beta carotene and can you say three times the amount of vitamin C that is required daily in just one medium pepper?!? Move over oranges, all the more reason to eat like a locavore.

Look for firm peppers with tight skins, that seem heavy for their size. Avoid any with wrinkles or cracks on the exterior. Get your peppers home and enjoy raw sans anything, or in a salad or salsa. Or bump up the sweet factor and start cooking: roasted, grilled, sauteed, or stuffed. I, or we collectively, need to bug Joel from Green Acres Farms, to share his recipe for their lovely little Ultra Sweet Gourmet Tulip Bells stuffed with caramelized fennel. I mean, how good does that sound? Meanwhile, one of my favorite things to do with an abundance of peppers is grill or roast them, which once skinned will keep well in a bit of oil in the fridge for use on an antipasto platter, sandwiches, salads, pasta, dips, well you get the idea.

Roasted Peppers

4-5 large peppers (Bells or Poblanos or a combo)

2 Tablespoons of olive oil

salt

Preheat broiler to high. Core and cut peppers lengthwise into quarters. Remove the seeds and pithy membrane. Place peppers, skin side up on a baking sheet under the broiler until the skins blacken. Remove from broiler and place peppers into a brown paper or large plastic ziplock bag, seal and then let stand for at least 15 minutes, letting the steam loosen the skins. When cool enough to handle, remove the skins from the peppers (nb: do not rinse to aid in this process, peppers will loose too much flavor, be patient and use your fingers and a knife if need be). Toss in olive oil and a pinch of salt and then store in the fridge.

Labels: capsaicin, Chicago Farmers Markets, chilis, Green City Market, peppers, seasonal organic produce

To Market with Mo: Acrimonious Rose

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

No, no, no, not accepting that Summer is over. Yes, as of yesterday, and confirmed by my favorite weatherman, Tom Skilling, it is now officially Fall. And indications of the season are confirming said season change -- apples, pears, and pumpkins, yeah, pumpkins, have shown up to the party that I am not quite ready for. I love what the Fall harvest has to offer, but I am still trying to hang on desperately to Summer...that first blustery day and I will have to get past the denial stage.

Meanwhile, before I fully accept the season I am going to ease in with something that has been with us since the first days of the markets in the form of tender green and delicate scapes to the now fully developed mature, parchment covered heads. Garlic.

I mean really, what can't you eat garlic with? Pretty hard-pressed to find a culture that does not use the 'stinking rose' culinarily or medicinally. Okay, the Irish and Brits were slow to jump on the band wagon, but I think they are fully engaged now. Pretty sure my Irish grandmother never used a clove of garlic in her cooking. On the other side, my Ukrainian grandfather was big on consuming cloves of raw garlic, and ya wonder why he lived into his 90's.

Rather pungent when raw, garlic mellows and sweetens when cooked. And the finer the chop, the stronger the taste, ie. crushed is way stronger than a whole clove - guess that explains why the infamous "Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic" isn't completely overpowered by the intact 40 cloves.

Look for firm, dry heads that are covered in plenty of the parchment-like skin. Signs of green shoots? Too old. Each head of garlic should yield between 10-20 cloves of garlic depending on the variety. Garlic needs to breath, so store garlic in a cool, dry spot out of direct sunlight. DO NOT store in the fridge or in oil. How long is it going to last? Well that all depends on the age, variety, and how the garlic was handled when harvested. But, being that we only have a bit more than a month of outdoor farmers markets left, start stocking up on heads of garlic.

Tomatoes did not 'get the memo' about the season change, so they are still to be had at the markets. And paired with some fresh chopped garlic, basil, salt and olive oil? No wonder I haven't left summer. But since it will get cooler and ovens all over the city are being turned on, here is an easy and scrumptious way to enjoy all those heads of garlic.

Roasted Garlic

1 head of garlic (contrary to former fads, resist 'elephant' garlic, it is oh so bland)

drizzle of olive oil

sea salt

cracked black pepper

fresh thyme (optional)

lemon zest (optional)

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Cut the top 1/3 off the garlic head. Place garlic head on a piece of foil. Drizzle olive oil on the garlic. Sprinkle salt, pepper, thyme and lemon zest on the garlic. Wrap foil, leaving some 'breathing' room. Roast in oven for one to 1 1/2 hours, until the garlic is soft and golden, Use to slather on crusty bread (check out Bennison's Bakery at a number of area farmers markets) or mix into mashed potatoes, or spread on grilled chicken, beef or meaty fish.

Labels: Bennisons Bakery, Chicago Farmers Markets, garlic, Green City Market, seasonal organic produce, tomatoes