It was supposed to be better the second time. Everyone said give it another shot. A girlfriend said that it’s always awkward the first time and I needed to give it time to get better. My only thought was, “it’s a restaurant not the birds and the bees.” So I did. I waited over six months to take a trip back to Art Smith’s Table 52. The little greystone was jammed. People waiting to be seated? Maybe it would be better this time! The reviews had certainly improved so what did I have to lose? After taking a long look at the fancified Southern favorites I was pleased. The menu had evolved and read like a Low Country cookbook. Chef Smith had brought favorites like pork chops, greens, grits and jambalaya to the menu and dressed them up with a price fitting this Gold Coast restaurant.
We began with the Low-Country shrimp and stone ground grits. When they arrived I was pleased. The grits were topped off with four large shrimp sautéed beautifully and then topped with a smattering of roasted red peppers that brought my taste buds to attention. The grits were creamy and buttery, dense without being chewy. The shrimp popped when I bit into it and made me hungrier for what awaited. Little did I know I should’ve had another order of grits and called it a night. Next came the quail. Two adorable little birds, arrived with grill marks (I love these) and a generous serving of carrots, braised legumes and onions. I thought it would be impossible for a chef of such high caliber to destroy something as simple as vegetables. Even my mother, who would rather make reservations than a home cooked meal, has mastered braising and sautéing vegetables. The quail while tender and generous in proportion was flavor free. Art Smith, meet Salt and his wife Pepper. The ancho-chile crusted pork chop with butter beans and brussel sprout leaves looked quite appealing on the menu so I was quite anxious to taste it. It arrived in perfect time. Prepared medium rare just as it should but completely overdone with the heavy ancho-chile crust. I tasted the smokiness of the chile and lots of salt. It only took two bites before I needed to be reassured that my name wasn’t Bullwinkle and that we had indeed ordered a pork chop. Not a salt lick. How could the appetizer have been so good and the mains making me wish I’d stayed home with leftover Chinese and a Law and Order marathon?
Thankfully dessert saved me from my hunger. I dove into Chef Smith’s Hummingbird cake. The symphony of pineapple cake with banana icing repeated over several layers was the life boat of this dinner. It was Gastrogasmic. Sweet chunks of pineapple fell out of the cake and begged to wrapped in the homemade vanilla ice cream. Hummingbird cake is the new crack.
While the wine list is studded with obscure international picks and the stateside selections are what you’d expect. Well priced bottles and glass pours were a welcome surprise considering the dining menu.
Table 52
52 West Elm
Chicago, IL 60610
312-573-4000Labels: art smith, chicago dining, chicago restaurants, fete select tv, fine dining, gold coast, kellye washington, oprah's chef, soul food, table 52
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