Delicious Duchamp - By Mike Shriner the Burger Fiend


Wednesday, January 20, 2010


Everyone gets to experience a little luck from time to time. And right now the Burger Fiend is on one hell of a streak. Happy New Year to me, that's for sure!

Coming off the heels of two excellent recent excursions, last week – after nearly a year of anticipation – the fiend finally got a chance to check out the burger he’s heard so much about from various people both inside and outside the culinary world.

And it has been determined that the extremely knowledgeable and affable Chef Michael Taus – proprietor of both Duchamp and the River North establishment Zealous – can make one doozey of a burger.

In an odd move for the Fiend (only child syndrome), it was previously decided that on this evening all dishes would be shared to taste the full spectrum of the menu. Therefore I had to compromise my typical “rare” order and up the doneness a little to “medium rare” to appease the masses (huge table: three people, including yours truly).

While all the food was very good indeed, especially the skirt steak, much to my delight it was unanimous amongst the group that the Havarti cheeseburger was the clear du-champion of the night.

Like any wonderful sandwich ever consumed in history, the toppings, meat and bread need to be in complete concert with each other without one single ingredient overpowering the other. When achieved, the symphony of taste and flavor that follows easily brings with it a chorus of mmmm’s, ooooh’s and ahhhh’s.

Regarding the burger of my desire this evening, most intriguing to me is the choice of Havarti cheese, which is a very atypical selection for a burger, the likes reserved mostly for the standard American, cheddar, Swiss or provolone offerings. However the aged qualities of Havarti helps not only amplify the umami of the meat, but it’s soft and buttery profile produces a rich and flavorful adventure that churns away from the aforementioned Big Four.

The fiend foresees more and more of these alternative cheese choices as a 2010 burger trend, a subtle yet effective way for a restaurant to take its rote blandness to the next level.

As for the meat itself, Chef Taus uses a proprietary blend of beef, which was absolutely evident in the quality and taste. Perfectly pink throughout at its medium-rare doneness, nutty, smooth and velvety were the effects on the palate, with a hint of smokiness being detected on the finely charred exterior.

Combined with the house-made tomato remoulade, and a touch of mayonnaise and ketchup on a toasted potato bun, it was the culinary equivalent of the finest John Williams score and Metallica’s S&M roar merging at once – both beautiful and strong to the senses.

Likewise, the freshly cut pomme frites (nearly pont neuf) rounded out the dish in a wonderfully starchy and gourmet fashion. After all, no amazing burger meal would be complete without its equally great potato sidekicks.

So if you’re not a gambling man and are looking for an insider tip…this Duchamp is a pretty easy bet. This ain’t no lady luck, mis amigos.

2118 North Damen Avenue
Chicago, IL 60647
(773) 235-6434
http://www.duchamp-chicago.com/

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Got Date? Go Here!


Tuesday, August 25, 2009


Sooo many restaurants to try and sooo little time to try them. In-fact, most of us get so caught up going to the same restaurants week after week that we forget about the fine dining options that the city has to offer. One particular example is Aria, located in the Fairmont Hotel. The New World Asian restaurant offers a contemporary twist on conventional dining. Chef de cuisine Ronnie Aleman prepared a meal that was memorable and that deserves to be revisited.

Aria’s culinary team brings a diverse ethnic influence to the menu. From the start of their “amuse” to their “dessert flight” the cuisine boasted flavors and spices that prompted an eagerness to take the next bite and to try another course. The following menu items is a guide to Aria’s New World Asian experience.

Amuse:

“aria spiced” grilled shrimp, sweet summer watermelon, cilantro basil cucumber broth

Appetizer Flight:

Hot and sour baked rock shrimp, sweet and sour chili glaze

Spicy citrus calamari, lime zest, scallion

Shrimp and pork potstickers, ponzu

Aria “sushi poppers” (created by Ronnie Aleman)

Salad:

Organic Heirloom Tomatoes, sherry marinated shallots, English cucumbers, brioche croutons, extra virgin olive oil, organic green and opal basil, sea salt, freshly ground black pepper

Fish:

Soy and mirin glazed Black Cod, organic pea puree, sugar snap peas, hon shemedji mushrooms, organic pea tendrils

Meat:

Wagyu strip steak, butter glazed organic carrots, summer baby squash, wild mushroom demi glace

Dessert Flight:

“Banana Split” sorbet: banana, strawberry, chocolate, pineapple sorbets

Take Five:chocolate cheesecake, savory pretzel crust, peanut butter ganache, caramel sauce

Banana Bread Flan: spicy oaxacan sorbet, candied walnuts, banana bread tuille

Ambiance and service at Aria is what to be expected from a fine dining environment. The service is attentive, detailed and knowledgeable. The rich colors of the restaurant makes it a comfortable and warm place to dine with friends or a significant other. The Aria Bar is an upbeat diversion from the main dining area and is highlighted by an illuminated sushi bar. Communal style tables make it easy to share dishes or meet new friends. It’s a perfect place to meet for sake or a glass of wine from their extensive wine list. In 2008 Aria’s Bar received an award for “Chicago’s Best Date Spot”.

Aria is on the ground level of the Fairmont Hotel, 200 N. Columbus Dr. For more information visit www.ariachicago.com. To get an inside look and a review of the newest and best restaurants in Chicago check out Fete Select TV.

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