Gastrogasmic Dining at Table 52 With Kellye

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

It was supposed to be better the second time. Everyone said give it another shot. A girlfriend said that it’s always awkward the first time and I needed to give it time to get better. My only thought was, “it’s a restaurant not the birds and the bees.” So I did. I waited over six months to take a trip back to Art Smith’s Table 52. The little greystone was jammed. People waiting to be seated? Maybe it would be better this time! The reviews had certainly improved so what did I have to lose? After taking a long look at the fancified Southern favorites I was pleased. The menu had evolved and read like a Low Country cookbook. Chef Smith had brought favorites like pork chops, greens, grits and jambalaya to the menu and dressed them up with a price fitting this Gold Coast restaurant.

We began with the Low-Country shrimp and stone ground grits. When they arrived I was pleased. The grits were topped off with four large shrimp sautéed beautifully and then topped with a smattering of roasted red peppers that brought my taste buds to attention. The grits were creamy and buttery, dense without being chewy. The shrimp popped when I bit into it and made me hungrier for what awaited. Little did I know I should’ve had another order of grits and called it a night. Next came the quail. Two adorable little birds, arrived with grill marks (I love these) and a generous serving of carrots, braised legumes and onions. I thought it would be impossible for a chef of such high caliber to destroy something as simple as vegetables. Even my mother, who would rather make reservations than a home cooked meal, has mastered braising and sautéing vegetables. The quail while tender and generous in proportion was flavor free. Art Smith, meet Salt and his wife Pepper. The ancho-chile crusted pork chop with butter beans and brussel sprout leaves looked quite appealing on the menu so I was quite anxious to taste it. It arrived in perfect time. Prepared medium rare just as it should but completely overdone with the heavy ancho-chile crust. I tasted the smokiness of the chile and lots of salt. It only took two bites before I needed to be reassured that my name wasn’t Bullwinkle and that we had indeed ordered a pork chop. Not a salt lick. How could the appetizer have been so good and the mains making me wish I’d stayed home with leftover Chinese and a Law and Order marathon?

Thankfully dessert saved me from my hunger. I dove into Chef Smith’s Hummingbird cake. The symphony of pineapple cake with banana icing repeated over several layers was the life boat of this dinner. It was Gastrogasmic. Sweet chunks of pineapple fell out of the cake and begged to wrapped in the homemade vanilla ice cream. Hummingbird cake is the new crack.

While the wine list is studded with obscure international picks and the stateside selections are what you’d expect. Well priced bottles and glass pours were a welcome surprise considering the dining menu.

Table 52
52 West Elm
Chicago, IL 60610
312-573-4000

Labels: art smith, chicago dining, chicago restaurants, fete select tv, fine dining, gold coast, kellye washington, oprah's chef, soul food, table 52

Old World Italian Inspires Gold Coast Supper Club

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

The word "authentic" is sometimes over used in restaurants when referencing cuisine. If you have ever traveled to Europe, more specifically Italy, then you probably have a good idea of what "authentic" food is about. Chefs that didn't grow up in Italy sometimes draw on their childhood family experiences in the kitchen that help to inspire their menu. Executive Chef Tony Navarro was no different when he opened 200 East Supper Club.

Located in the Gold Cost on the main level of the historic Seneca Hotel, the 200 East Supper club is a moderately priced, business-casual spot that features live entertainment Tuesday - Saturday. The ambiance feels somewhat old school with a little bit of elegance sprinkled throughout the main dining room. The menu is plastered with eclectic, contemporary Italian dishes complemented by recipes handed down from the Navarro family. My meal started out with a couple of appetizers, including the "Melrose Peppers" stuffed with Italian sausage and the "Spinach and Artichoke Dip". However my favorite starter for the evening was their "New England Clam Chowder", which happened to be the soup of the day. They should make that a mainstay on the menu by the way. One of their signature dishes, "The Brickhouse Chicken" boasted flavors that were better than most chicken dishes I've experienced and the "Rigatoni ala Bruno" was another signature dish nicely done that featured fresh spinach, ricotta cheese and fresh homemade Italian sausage. I could definitely tell that all of their dishes are homemade, including the salad dressings and desserts. Be sure to bring your appetite, because the food is not only tasty, but the portions are plentiful.

One of the stars at 200 East Supper Club is bartender George Cozzi. A familar face at Gibson's Steak House for about 13 years, George is one of 12 bartenders inducted into the Bartender's Hall of Fame in Las Vegas. George made me a killer Manhattan and has a passion for concocting other specialty martinis. His Patini martini is named after Pat Brickhouse, wife of famed Chicago sports broadcaster Jack Brickhouse. The Patini is made with vodka, pnieapple juice and topped off with champagne. George has a following of his own that keeps customers returning to the supper club.

200 East Supper Club has a $21.95 prix fixe menu special on Sunday's, Monday's and Tuesday's. Enjoy an appetizer, salad, entree and dessert for the aforementioned price. Their nightly live entertainment and upbeat music encourages customers to dance, which is a nice way to cap off a good meal.

200 East Supper Club is located at 200 East Chestnut St. For more information visit www.200eastchestnut.com. To get an inside look at the newest and best restaurants in Chicago watch Fete Select TV on www.efete.net

Labels: 200 east supper club, chicago dining, chicago restaurants, cocktails, dancing, dc crenshaw, fete select tv, gold coast, italian food, jack brickhouse, nbc chicago street team, tony navarro