Each time I hear the likes of Anthony Bourdain or Tyler Florence describe something as unctuous I am intrigued. Despite having a journalism degree and spending life with my nose in a book, this is a word I have seldom come across. Unctuous defined is fatty, oily and greasy. This surprised me because I had thought it would be more along the lines of, well, mouth watering. So, as an aspiring food writer should, I set out to define unctuous for myself - the kind of unctuous with a positive connotation.
Taking a lead from Tyler Florence who described braised beef short ribs as unctuous, I looked for a dish that took a short rib to the next level. I found this dish, Short Rib Stroganoff, at Graham Elliot (217 W. Huron). To preface, I approached this meal with a pledge of no negativity because my first reaction when I saw the crazy and innovative menu items was "this is what one of the most acclaimed chefs in Chicago has to offer me?" With this in mind, I filed any criticism away to that dark place I keep my festering hate for my high school boyfriend and indulged. The perfectly tender meat was served on a bed of egg noodles and topped with a peppery horseradish creme fraiche. Delicious? Yes. Rich? Yes. Unctuous? Eh.
Next stop on my journey was the dependable and always delectable Naha (500 N. Clark). If anyone could nail this one, I was sure it would be James Beard Award winning Chef Carrie Nahabedian. I ordered the most seemingly unctuous item on the menu -a dinner appropriate spin on Eggs Benedict. The "Coddled" Egg "Benedict", with Kurobuta Pork Belly was served with a homemade English muffin and red potatoes. It was ooey, gooey, and fulfilled all of my pork belly dreams (I have many) but it did not feel like unctuous.
Finally, I went to a restaurant I knew I could rely on. I went to Gabriel's (310 Greenbay Rd, Highwood). A place that has been a mainstay for Chicago foodies and fifteen years after opening is still superb every single night. Knowing a bit more of what is NOT unctuous, I ordered the seared Foie Gras- a beautifully basic dish of liver dusted in flour and pan seared in clarified butter. I knew after the first bite I had figured out what they had all meant. It was simply unctuous.Labels: anthony bourdain, fete blog, fete select, graham elliott, maddie, madeleine yastrow, naha, tyler florence
unctuous may be my new favorite word! i cant wait to find my next unctuous dish!!!
p.s. i also tried out graham elliot last week -- while fun, it was so rich! i left hungry and with a tummy ache. it was fun to see cheese-its on the menu though!
Can't wait to read more!
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