To Dine For by Maddie: All That Is Unctuous
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Each time I hear the likes of Anthony Bourdain or Tyler Florence describe something as unctuous I am intrigued. Despite having a journalism degree and spending life with my nose in a book, this is a word I have seldom come across. Unctuous defined is fatty, oily and greasy. This surprised me because I had thought it would be more along the lines of, well, mouth watering. So, as an aspiring food writer should, I set out to define unctuous for myself - the kind of unctuous with a positive connotation.
Taking a lead from Tyler Florence who described braised beef short ribs as unctuous, I looked for a dish that took a short rib to the next level. I found this dish, Short Rib Stroganoff, at Graham Elliot (217 W. Huron). To preface, I approached this meal with a pledge of no negativity because my first reaction when I saw the crazy and innovative menu items was "this is what one of the most acclaimed chefs in Chicago has to offer me?" With this in mind, I filed any criticism away to that dark place I keep my festering hate for my high school boyfriend and indulged. The perfectly tender meat was served on a bed of egg noodles and topped with a peppery horseradish creme fraiche. Delicious? Yes. Rich? Yes. Unctuous? Eh.
Next stop on my journey was the dependable and always delectable Naha (500 N. Clark). If anyone could nail this one, I was sure it would be James Beard Award winning Chef Carrie Nahabedian. I ordered the most seemingly unctuous item on the menu -a dinner appropriate spin on Eggs Benedict. The "Coddled" Egg "Benedict", with Kurobuta Pork Belly was served with a homemade English muffin and red potatoes. It was ooey, gooey, and fulfilled all of my pork belly dreams (I have many) but it did not feel like unctuous.
Finally, I went to a restaurant I knew I could rely on. I went to Gabriel's (310 Greenbay Rd, Highwood). A place that has been a mainstay for Chicago foodies and fifteen years after opening is still superb every single night. Knowing a bit more of what is NOT unctuous, I ordered the seared Foie Gras- a beautifully basic dish of liver dusted in flour and pan seared in clarified butter. I knew after the first bite I had figured out what they had all meant. It was simply unctuous.Labels: anthony bourdain, fete blog, fete select, graham elliott, maddie, madeleine yastrow, naha, tyler florence
El Barco Mariscos..."To Dine For" by Maddie
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
After several failed attempts to get my friend Jordan to have dinner at Graham Elliot or L2O he finally told me to quit whining and would take me to a spectacular “gem”– a place with the “best ceviche in Chicago”.
As we drove west on Division, I guessed all of the wrong spots. Are we going to Takashi? Nope. Mexique? Nope. After all of my superciliousness and uninformed attempts at guessing our destination we arrived at El Barco Mariscos (1035 N. Ashland).
Upon sitting down at one of the communal-esque tables, our server set down a plate filled with crispy tortilla chips, salsa and mole. Not for the faint of heart, these were some seriously spicy but scintillating condiments. I delighted by the satisfying smoky Chile flavor from the tar looking mole – a smokiness I’d never experienced before.
Set down in front of me in what can only be described as a huge chalice (my first thought was Pimp Cup), filled with a cool and refreshing sangria– without any of chunks of wine soaked fruit getting stuck in the straw. Jordan, as it turns out, knows what he’s talking about. The ceviche arrived next on an oblong plate divided into three sections: octopus, fish, and shrimp. Each prepared the same and included tiny bits of tomatoes, generous chunks of perfectly ripe avocado and as promised the freshest seafood I have ever had in Chicago. The preparation was so simple that we were instructed to take a lime from the cute wire basket on our table and squeeze fresh juice over the entire dish. The octopus was my favorite – just chewy enough not to be chewy and lacking nothing in flavor.
The other dish we tried was the whole fried Red Snapper. I generally shy away from whole fish – not because I don’t enjoy it but because I’m a hypocritical conservationist. I have trouble seeing the head and the eyes staring at me. Let me just say I got over it quickly and was soon enjoying the flavorful fish cooked with garlic and green onions. I’m embarrassed to admit that I eventually was picking up pieces with my fingers like other patrons – something only a place as affordable and relaxed, as El Barco Mariscos would welcome.Labels: ceviche, chicago dining, chicago restaurants, dining blog, el barco mariscos, fete chicago, fete select tv, maddie, mexican, restaurants, sangria
"To Dine For" by Maddie
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
This summer, simply filling up my gas tank has stalled my ability to
embark on the types of culinary adventures I have come to crave. My
personal hero, Anthony Bourdain, chef, author, and foodie
extraordinaire has taught me a thing or two about what defines a great
culinary experience. So, since I can't afford to travel the world on
an adventure of my own, I settled for watching the new season of his
hit show "No Reservations" on the Travel Channel (airing Monday nights
at 9 PM CST) and try to fill that void at home.
Bourdain and his crew traveled to Spain this week and in preparation,
I did a bit of "research" at my favorite place to blow a whole
paycheck, Fox and Obel (401 E. Illinois), where I picked up a few
items to assemble a Spanish influenced antipasto platter to munch on
during the show.
The first thing I included is thin slices of Serrano ham, an uncooked
and cured Spanish variety. Next, I chose two cheeses with the help of
the cheese monger – Nevat, a goat's milk cheese from the Catalonian
region (think Barcelona) and 12 month-old aged Manchego – a sheep's
milk cheese from La Mancha and officially my new obsession.
After picking up some Marcona almonds and Manzanillian green olives I
decided to look for some wine. I took the opportunity to try a
different type of grape, Tempranillo. This black grape is used in
full-bodied red wines, such as Rioja, and can be consumed while young
and have flavors and aromas of berries, plum, tobacco, vanilla,
leather and herbs.
Bourdain's eloquent and honest reporting gave me a new appreciation
for a country I've visited twice before and even transported me back
for a moment but sadly, my sofa continues to be a far cry from dinner
at El Bulli.Labels: anthony bourdain, chicago restaurants, dining blog, efete.net, fete chicago, fete select, food, maddie, no reservations, travel, travel channel
unctuous may be my new favorite word! i cant wait to find my next unctuous dish!!!
p.s. i also tried out graham elliot last week -- while fun, it was so rich! i left hungry and with a tummy ache. it was fun to see cheese-its on the menu though!
Can't wait to read more!
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