To Dine For By Maddie: Pros and Cons for Province


Tuesday, March 24, 2009


I contemplated writing about this restaurant for weeks because I would have to stray from my strictly stay positive policy. After a not-so-great dinner during Restaurant Week, I decided that before writing it off forever I would follow in the footsteps of Phil Vettel and try it a few times to be fair. This proved to be a smart move because the following week my mother and I had an excellent lunch at Province (161 N. Jefferson).

Province is a fun spot with an inventive menu influenced from Central and South America and Spain. The decor is bold with bright pink walls and the actual building possesses the extremely rare gold-level LEED certification (U.S. Green Building Council's rating system for existing buildings by measuring performance to maximize operational efficiency while minimizing costs and environmental impacts). Additionally, Province prides itself on using local organic ingredients in a "farm to table" dining experience. Executive Chef Randy Zweiban of Nacional 27 takes a fairly new approach to modernizing Latin cuisine and succeeds with many dishes.


The best thing that my friend Allie and I ate during our dinner at Province was the Green Acres Farms Winter Squash Taquito off the "bites" section of the menu. We ordered everything in that category and enjoyed the Cuban Pork Bocadillo, but wished we had another taquito instead of the Peeky Toe Crab toast. The Fluke Ceviche with Red Grapefruit was one of the bigger disappointments of the night as it was flavorless and stringy in texture - not the "mouth feel" you hope for in a Ceviche dish. Luckily, we quickly forgot about the ceviche when the Tortilla Soup was served! This fun spin on a classic is awesome for a light lunch or a first course at dinner. The bottom of the bowl was filled with guacamole and roasted chicken and a spicy chicken broth was poured over the top for a little bit of a wow factor.


As it was restaurant week, two of the items we ordered are not mainstays on the menu. The Sherry and Mushroom Bisque was forgettable but the Braised Beef Short Rib with pancetta hash was certainly not! The Hawaiian Seared Tuna was really disappointing as it was flavorless, and missing the promised honey roasted root vegetables and caper vinaigrette! I blame our server who was not at the top of his game for sure. We capped off the meal with a sure thing: "Chocolate Three Ways" which was composed of a Chocolate Flan, Cocoa Sorbet, Chocolate Gooey Muffin and Dulce de Leche.


Lunch was much more of a turn on. Although we only shared two dishes, they were both fantastic. The Chicken and Apple salad delivered visually as well as in texture and flavor. Perfectly uniform matchsticks of tart apples tossed with roasted chicken, toasted almonds and candied olives. Additionally, we had (drum roll please!) the Pork Belly and Avocado Sandwich. Notwithstanding my glutton for pork belly, I am pretty sure my mother was fulfilled after eating this tummy-pleaser. Rich pork belly goodness is served with avocado on grilled country rosemary bread along side of a puckery red cabbage slaw which cut the fattiness of the sandwich perfectly.


My personal theme for 2009 is to keep my learning curve turned up and "reviewing" this restaurant was a great lesson. I understand what a bad write up can do to the heart and soul of a restaurant and the people working there (I have seen it first hand) and I will never allow myself to become a hater. However, a little bit of constructive criticism is what makes us better, isn't it?


Labels: , , , ,


0 Comments:

Post a Comment

<< Home



To Dine For by Maddie: All That Is Unctuous


Wednesday, September 10, 2008



Each time I hear the likes of Anthony Bourdain or Tyler Florence describe something as unctuous I am intrigued. Despite having a journalism degree and spending life with my nose in a book, this is a word I have seldom come across. Unctuous defined is fatty, oily and greasy. This surprised me because I had thought it would be more along the lines of, well, mouth watering. So, as an aspiring food writer should, I set out to define unctuous for myself - the kind of unctuous with a positive connotation.

Taking a lead from Tyler Florence who described braised beef short ribs as unctuous, I looked for a dish that took a short rib to the next level. I found this dish, Short Rib Stroganoff, at Graham Elliot (217 W. Huron). To preface, I approached this meal with a pledge of no negativity because my first reaction when I saw the crazy and innovative menu items was "this is what one of the most acclaimed chefs in Chicago has to offer me?" With this in mind, I filed any criticism away to that dark place I keep my festering hate for my high school boyfriend and indulged. The perfectly tender meat was served on a bed of egg noodles and topped with a peppery horseradish creme fraiche. Delicious? Yes. Rich? Yes. Unctuous? Eh.

Next stop on my journey was the dependable and always delectable Naha (500 N. Clark). If anyone could nail this one, I was sure it would be James Beard Award winning Chef Carrie Nahabedian. I ordered the most seemingly unctuous item on the menu -a dinner appropriate spin on Eggs Benedict. The "Coddled" Egg "Benedict", with Kurobuta Pork Belly was served with a homemade English muffin and red potatoes. It was ooey, gooey, and fulfilled all of my pork belly dreams (I have many) but it did not feel like unctuous.

Finally, I went to a restaurant I knew I could rely on. I went to Gabriel's (310 Greenbay Rd, Highwood). A place that has been a mainstay for Chicago foodies and fifteen years after opening is still superb every single night. Knowing a bit more of what is NOT unctuous, I ordered the seared Foie Gras- a beautifully basic dish of liver dusted in flour and pan seared in clarified butter. I knew after the first bite I had figured out what they had all meant. It was simply unctuous.

Labels: , , , , , , ,


4 Comments:
Anonymous Anonymous said...
mads
unctuous may be my new favorite word! i cant wait to find my next unctuous dish!!!
September 10, 2008 8:01 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...
maddie, i love the wit! keep up the razz pieces.

p.s. i also tried out graham elliot last week -- while fun, it was so rich! i left hungry and with a tummy ache. it was fun to see cheese-its on the menu though!
September 11, 2008 12:49 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...
My "duckie" and I love it! We also love Gabriel's in "Highwood" too!
Can't wait to read more!
September 19, 2008 6:40 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...
I don't feel you are being truthful regarding Gabrielle's since you are dating him!
November 30, 2009 12:18 PM  

Post a Comment

<< Home



Mama's Meatballs by Maddie


Thursday, September 4, 2008



For the past couple of years, my family and I have been making the worthwhile trek out to Palatine for a meal in an unassuming freestanding building on Rand Rd. Until last Friday, Ristorante Barella, (now located at 100 Hale Street in Wheaton and currently operating under the name Ristorante Caponata) stood across from a used car lot and kiddie corner from a strip club all the while serving some delectable and incredibly authentic Italian food.

The moment you walk in the door you are greeted by the genuine warmth of Chef and owner "Mama" (Nancy Longbardi) and her children. This good heartedness continues to ooze out of every bite of food and every drop of wine served at this family owned and operated establishment.

Now, anyone who knows my parents know that it takes more than just great food to get them out of their North Shore comfort zone, let alone making it west of 294 for dinner. They do have other motives and I can sum it up in two words: Mama's Meatballs - that and the fact we are all in love with Mama's daughter Rosie Migliaccio who is always our server and just about the most adorable person you'll ever meet.

Back to Mama's Meatballs. These traditional Napoli style veal meatballs have a tender and delicate consistency that is almost creamy. Each one is studded with bright green peas and wrapped in paper-thin slices of eggplant. The meatballs are simmered in a perfectly balanced and seemingly simple Pomodoro sauce and served on their own - no pasta necessary.

In a state of panic when I found out my beloved Barella was moving even further away I decided to pay homage to Mama and her meatballs by creating my own version of this light and satisfying dish. Below you will find the recipe for "Maddie's Meatballs". Should you make it to Ristorante Caponata (the name will change back to Barella eventually) there are a few other must have dishes. Our family favorites include the Pasta Foccacia, grilled calamari, Veal Francais and whatever special dishes Mama is offering up that night!

Maddie's Meatballs

2 lbs ground veal
2 large eggs (lightly beaten)
1 cup diced pancetta
1 clove garlic
¼ cup minced shallots
¼ fresh breadcrumbs - panko does not work in this recipe
¼ chive cottage cheese (fresh ricotta if you can get it)
¼ freshly grated pecorino romano
Kosher salt
3 cups chicken stock
3 cups water


In a large bowl mix veal, eggs, pancetta, shallots, garlic, breadcrumbs, cheese (both kinds) and 2 teaspoons of salt. This is best done with your hands. Shape the mixture into about 15 fist size meatballs. In a large saucepan bring water and chicken stock to a boil. Lower heat to a simmer (low heat) and add half of the meatballs. Cook for about ten minutes - or until they are cooked through. Use a slotted spoon to transfer cooked meatballs to a baking sheet and repeat process.

*****I like to serve these on top of a simple salad of roasted vegetables and romaine lettuce, however, they are great on top of spaghetti as well*****

Labels: , , , , ,


2 Comments:
Anonymous Anonymous said...
Maadie, I want you to make the meatballs for me without pancetta. Your writing lets me close my eyes and taste the food.
A friend
September 4, 2008 5:57 PM  
Blogger maman G said...
Maddie, I want you to make these for me without the pancetta. Your writing enables me to close my eyes and taste the food . A friend
September 4, 2008 6:04 PM  

Post a Comment

<< Home